Outdoor outlets and USB outlets: what the code asks for and what they cost

How many outdoor outlets the code expects

NEC 210.52(E) covers outlets outside a house. A one- or two-family home needs two: one at the front and one at the back. Each is within reach from the ground and no more than 6 and a half feet above grade. Each apartment or townhouse unit with its own ground-level entrance needs at least one. A porch, deck or balcony that opens to the inside needs at least one, within 6 and a half feet of its surface.

Many older SoCal homes have only one outlet outside, or none on the front. Adding the second one is a normal request, and it also covers holiday lights and a pressure washer. The code sets the minimum, not the best spot, so place it where cords actually reach. For path lights and spotlights, see landscape lighting.

What makes an outlet safe outside

Three parts work together.

1. GFCI protection. NEC 210.8(A) lists outdoors as a location that needs it. The protection can come from a GFCI outlet or a GFCI breaker. See GFCI outlet installation.
2. A weather-resistant (WR) receptacle. The outlet is marked WR and is made to resist sun and moisture. Under section 406.9, 15 and 20 amp outlets in damp and wet locations must be WR.
3. A cover that fits the location. In a damp location, such as under a porch roof, the outlet needs an enclosure that stays weatherproof when no plug is in it. In a wet location, where rain reaches the outlet, the cover must stay weatherproof with a cord plugged in, and the hood is marked extra duty. A flip-up lid that closes only with nothing plugged in does not meet that.

A hinged in-use cover has to open wide enough to plug in. The electrician matches the cover to your wall: a flat stucco face needs a different box than lap siding.

Plastic covers that crack in the sun and boxes that fill with water are common reasons outdoor GFCIs trip. The GFCI and AFCI protection page explains tripping.

USB-A and USB-C outlets

A USB outlet is a standard 15 or 20 amp receptacle with charging ports built in. It swaps into the same box as a plain outlet. Choose by what charges there: USB-C for new phones and laptops, USB-A for older devices, and the listed output in watts. Tamper-resistant versions are required in many indoor locations under 406.12.

They fit best in kitchens, home offices and bedrooms. They are less useful in garages, where a plain GFCI outlet is the better choice. Smart outlets, which add a Wi-Fi switch to the device, are similar in cost. For switches, see smart switches and dimmers.

What it costs to add

As of October 2026 Fixr puts a simple outdoor outlet at $250 to $400 including labor and materials, and $1,000 to $1,400 when older wiring or panel changes are involved. A plain indoor outlet is $120 to $200 and a GFCI outlet up to $275. Those are on the outlet and GFCI cost page. A USB outlet swap falls near the plain-swap range plus the cost of the device, but no source gives a specific figure, so ask for a written quote.

An outdoor outlet on the wall near the panel or garage sits at the low end. One that needs buried cable in conduit, or a trip through a finished wall, sits higher, since trenching and patching add labor. A separate dedicated line, like a pool pump, is a circuit job, not an outlet job.

Permit

A new outdoor outlet means new wiring, so it usually needs a permit and an inspection. A like-for-like swap often does not. Ask your city, and see the permit guide. The inspector looks at the GFCI, the receptacle rating and the cover.

Choosing the spot

Put the outlet where the cord is used, not where the wire is easiest. A front outlet near the porch handles holiday lights. A back one near the patio handles a grill light, a fan or a pressure washer. Mount it high enough to stay out of splash from sprinklers and low enough to reach without a ladder. The code puts the limit at 6 and a half feet above grade.

Think about what will plug in. A string of lights is a small load. A pressure washer, an electric mower charger or a pool pump is bigger, and a pump or hot tub usually needs its own circuit. See pool and spa wiring for those. For an outlet that also feeds a charger, see the EV charger page.

If the outlet will power holiday lights or a timer, a smart plug indoors or a weatherproof timer outside is a small add-on that does not change the wiring. The electrician only needs to supply the outlet. Keep in mind that every cord left plugged in under an in-use cover should be rated for outdoor use.